Mirapafsheem Albania - Dobar Dehn Makedonia!

Time to catch up! Time flies when you're traveling and having fun...I'll go day by day and a few pictures where I can fit them in!

Sept 6th - on to Saranada

I woke to my final day on the beach and spent a relaxing morning on the beach, packing to go and enjoying the sounds of the surf and the sun on my face. My legs and stomach were a little pink (to say the least) but I was going to push through the heat because I don't think I'll see that kind of sun for some time. I waved goodbye to the family who owned the hotel and walked along the rocky beach to the small road that would take me to the "main" road in town so that I could catch my furgon (mini-bus) to Saranda, a larger town on the southern tip of Albania (just before Greece). I shook my head at the cow munching out of the dumpster and said a sheepish hello to the kids I passed and then saw Sonya, one of the women I met from Spain. She and her friend Sara had decided to come to Qepero and enjoy the sun... Though it was great to see her, during the time i stopped to chat with her (3 min), I got the chance to watch my furgon zoom past. We asked about 10 people when the next bus with come and each gave us a different answer. So instead of moping, she and I walked to a local cafe to sit and chat for a minute...or a few hours, depending on who we listened to in town. Just as we sat, I heard the honk honk of the mini-bus racing around the corner and caught it just as it was about to zoom past (again)...SUCCESS! It was another hot and curvy, er...test of stomach strength through the treacherous mountain roads.

A view from the mini-bus of my drive to Saranda (from Qepero)

The driver was kind enough to drive me around a bit once we got into Saranda (a large city) but ended up just dropping me off in frustration somewhere in the city. With my bad map in hand and a stubborn will to find my way, I eventually found the "Hairy Lemon" hostel (odd name, but great location and kind people). With little time to waste during my short stay in Saranda, I grabbed another map, asked what bus to take and ran off to catch a bus to Butrint National Park. I met up with a girl from the hostel and her mother who were taking the same bus to another town and we somehow squeezed ourselves onto the hot, sweaty bus (packed with people well over the capacity) and headed off. The drivers in Albania are the worst I've experienced thus far and the roads aren't much better. I'll give the drivers a bit of a break though because according to what I've heard about the history, people outside of the party were not allowed to own cars or drive until the mid-1980s when the communist dictator died.
I piled off the bus at Butrint, a national park that has been preserved to display the ruins of centuries of cultures moving through. From greeks to romans to venetians to ottomans, the remnants of different traditions and religions still remain on this small patch of land in Albania, just before the border with Greece. I wandered for an hour or so, taking in the castles, crystal blue-green waters, ancient pillars and old bathhouses. It was a great chance to catch up with my breath and enjoy the outdoors a bit (even though it was catered to tourists).

ancient theater seating at Butrint

enjoying the ruins at Butrint

domes and pillars made of stone...

yep...i am holding up that archway - look closely (yea right)

Though I planned to catch the last bus back, I planned ahead and was outside ready and waiting for the 2nd to last bus....and the adventure of travel begins again. Apparently, the bus driver didn't want to go back to Saranda (as he is scheduled to do for 2 more trips), but would take us to the next town (Kismal) and we could fend for ourselves the rest of the way. The locals were shocked right along with the tourists, but we dutifully got on the bus to at least get us closer. We were kicked off near the center of the next town and after conferring with the English girl from the hostel and 3 germans, we opted to get a taxi back to Saranda...it wasn't too much money and beat hitch hiking or worse, walking back (it was hot and it was a long way).
The rest of the night was uneventful...a quick swim in dirty water (I didn't realize it was dirty until I got in), a beautiful sunset from my 8th floor balcony (where the hostel was), a pasta and salad dinner that made me swoon and a surprise run in with the British guy I met my first day in Albania. We shared travel stories, caught up and then I was off to bed to rest up for my 5am walk to the bus station in the morning.

sunset on the dock...nothing better

Sept 7th -on to Macedonia, the long way

Four AM came very early...and quickly, but I dutifully got up, made my "Irish brekkie" (the hostel provided the fixin's for Irish pancakes for breakfast), packed my bag...again...and headed out in the pitch black to walk to the station. I wasn't sure if I'd run into cows or dogs or drunks...turns out I met up with only a pack of dogs that were easily deterred by my threatening raising of the hand (i might have actually picked up a rock, but you would too if you were facing a pack of dogs). I walked fast and with a purpose and found the bus station with a few minutes to spare. Though I prefer not waking up at 4am for a bus, I do enjoy the early morning bus rides and watching the sunrise. Promptly at 5:30, we putted off (yes, it was a bit of a putting sort of bus) up north towards the town of Korca. This was the first of my three-legged journey to get to Macedonia. As I said before, only party members were allowed to drive for much of Albania's history, so many of the roads are old, in poor shape and poorly organized. There aren't many of them and even "main roads" are small and usually with one lane. So the seemingly short trip took 8 hours. Yes...8 hours on a bus. Thankfully they believe in smoke breaks (potty breaks for me!) and so I jumped off any chance I got to visit a local WC or tree (whatever options were available) and chat with the man from Mongolia traveling through Albania.
I slept and watched the scenery, attempted to write in my book but failed because of the road bounce. The roads were sometimes precarious, but gorgeous. We drove through the mountains and saw more bunkers than I thought possible. Bunkers have a funny history in Albania - after many broken allies with other communist countries (first with Yugoslavia, then with Russia, then with China), Albania's old dictator thought that the best idea would be to build a bunker for every 3-4 people in the country to defend themselves from outside attack. Now they are remnants of an earlier time...and are all over the place.

fields of grapes along the road to Korca

ah the sunrise from the road

I rolled myself off of the bus after the 8 hour jaunt along winding roads in Korca (pronounced Korcha) and immediately hopped on a mini-bus headed to Pogradets, the town in Albania just before the Macedonian border. The guys were nice, but young and usually this brings a curiosity about the quiet young one in the back (i.e. me). It was only 40 min or so and I should have followed my instincts and gone with the directions I had from other fellow travelers...but I thought i'd ask the locals. After hauling my bag out of the mini-bus...the guys insisted that I could get to Macedonia if I stayed in their bus to the next town. I asked them 50 times (not really...but close) if I could get to this monastery that was right across the border - they didn't know of the monastery, but swore Macedonia was in my sights. So I loaded my bag back up and off we went.
This is when I grabbed my map and started checking landmarks - town names, the sun, the curve of the lake. Turns out there are TWO border crossings...one which is more convenient to crossing via public transport to get to Ohrid (the town I'm going to) and the other that is out in the boonies. Well...with no english on their part and no albanian on my part, we figured out that indeed, i had it right in Pogradets (i.e. i should have bid them adieu and caught a taxi to the border). But now we were far from that town and a few minutes from the border. So I added an extra, more expensive leg to the trip. With my bladder bursting, the handed me off to a taxi driver who took me to the border...then I walked across the Albania side -through n0-man's land - to the Macedonian side. Once I got there - I realized I had no Macedonian money (denars) and little clue of how I would get to Ohrid.

the welcome sign to Macedonia

This is where my guardian angel comes in...she's been working hard:) The ONLY car on the other side of the border pulled up just as I was scratching my head, wondering what to do. I don't know why I asked the border policeman about the price of a taxi to the next town, but I did. This gave me an idea of how much it should cost...so I didn't totally get ripped off. I asked for a ride to the next town and talked him down from there...a student discount he called it. Off we went. He turned out to be one of the kindest men I've met so far. He helped teach me the language, agreed to take me all the way to Ohrid (saved me another leg of my trip) and made jokes about his people (calling them very poor...I don't agree, but who am I to say). I needed that after my constant run-ins with obnoxious transport personnel. He even drove me around the old town (cobble streets and all) trying to find my hostel. It is true what lonely planet said - the people in this region will take you all the way to your destination if you ask nicely:)

The hostel took me a bit to find, but the city of Ohrid is striking. It sits on the western edge of Lake Ohrid and is a major tourist spot for families living in the Balkan states. It is gorgeous, clean and great to swim in. Apparently, a rare species of trout lives there and is being over-fished by the locals (the lake is shared by Albania -1/3 and Macedonia - 2/3). It is one of the deepest and oldest lakes in Europe, diving to 300 m at the deepest part. I settled in to one of the best hostels so far - The Sunny Lake Hostel, run by 2 brothers, explored the town (and the old cobbled streets) and enjoyed some yummy trout soup and greek salad with 2 guys from my hostel. I was too tired to do much more than that and called it an early night...

me on the cliff overlooking the clear waters

Sept 8th - a hike to the clouds

I was up and out early for my exploratory run and got back to double check my directions and head off for the hike. The guy at the hostel suggested I take a hike to the top of Magaro (emphasis of the first 'a'), the highest peak in Galicica National Park. I strolled through the fruit market, bought more figs and a few plums (in season and SO tasty) before plopping myself at the bus station to wait for the bus. I figured a trip to the monastery first, then to the park...then home. Ah...another packed day, but not possible when working on other people's travel options. (running out of computer time so I'll speed this up)
- caught a taxi with a student and picked up a few people along the way to the monastery including a french woman with macedonian husband. I'm convinced she was sent by my guardian angel and offered me a ride to the trail head (12 km off the main road). Her husband speaks english, but she doesn't so this initial conversation was interesting. We sat for a bit at her home and then headed off...with my own personal tour guides.
- against their advice, they dropped me off and I started up the hill...and what a hill. 10 km total hike, and quite the steep elevation. The trail was a bit old, but still worked and got me there and back just fine. at the top I saw all of the view below - Lake Ohrid and Lake Prespa.
- I had to hitch a ride home...the first guy was not so great and I got out asap... the second guy was great and practiced his english with me.

- Dinner and a few drinks with friends from the hostel and off to bed..

i'm in Chisinau now, but the story of my travels here are fascinating, so more to come....

Bukur Qepero! (Beautiful Chepero!)

(a day or so late...)

Greetings from Saranda, Albania!

Two days on a quiet beach and now here I am in the big city. I can see Greece from the window of my hostel (Corfu) - quite incredible. The beaches here aren't as nice as Qepero (more details soon), but the crystal clear water will do.

Sept 4th - Berat to Qepero

It was hard to leave the beautiful and quaint city of Berat but onward I must go. So after getting up way too early (jetlag) and walking in the sprinkles to the bus station (i was quite wet once I got there), I hopped on a bus to the port town of Vlora. To be honest, I was a bit nervous because I was following the advice of others, but had no map to go off of. But I had my guardian angel with me (she's been working very hard lately) and I was gifted a kind bus driver and his helper who helped me along. Each bus has a bus driver and then another guy who collects the money and helps people with their luggage. This guy gave me a front row seat and made sure I got to where I needed to go. Plus he kept his eye on me - which is a nice feeling when you are in a place and don't know where you are going exactly. I had a bit of a layover between when I got to Vlora and when I needed to leave for Qepero. This little town was a mystery to me before I got there. Albanians knew it well and said it was beautiful, but the English guidebooks had nothing. I met some women from Spain who had a more detailed book - but they knew nothing. The ladies on the bus going to other small towns along the coast were very helpful, speaking quickly in Albanian and not caring if I didn't understand. (I actually like this because it helps me hear the language and at least try to learn it). The bus driver was less than pleasant and his mood varied between yelling at us for eating grapes on the bus (delicious grapes) and arguing with passengers about something or another. The ride along the coast was quite wind-ey (meaning hairpin turns that make me green just thinking about them) along the hills and cliffs that are above the coast. The weather was less than perfect, but I had faith that the weather would eventually turn for the better. The pictures are fairly cloudy (but quite beautiful nonetheless).

Most of the roads along this pass were one lane and the driver honks as he's making the 180 degree turn to warn other drivers that he's coming. Honking is rarely done out of anger - more as a warning. We made a few turns where I looked down and couldn't see the road (just the cliff beneath me), but not a problem...I made it. As I was instructed, I told the locals that I needed to find "Foro Leka" (the man's name who owns this little hotel) and they dropped me off next to a small road headed to the water and said just go straight.

So I did...and here's what I saw:)

It was still raining, but I knew it'd be beautiful. The door to my room (with a kitchen and a bathroom) was about 50 m from the water...with little huts and a patio next to it. I couldn't have asked for a better spot. Qepero (pronounced Chepero) was my treat...my gift to myself and it was perfect. I spoke with the girl who's father owns the place and she gave me a little run down of where things are and what to do. I made some pasta for dinner, walked along the beach (minding the cows of course because they were walking on the beach too) and then headed to bed early - my first good night's rest of the trip.

Sept 5th - Qepero and old Qepero

As per my attempt to keep training for the marathon and my tradition of running in new places, I headed off for an early morning run after I was woken up by sun streaming through my window (fine by me)... The townspeople thought it was a bit odd, especially since I was able to run from one end of Qepero and back in under 30 min (gotta love small towns!). The main road really was a highway, so I had to dodge cars and trucks as well as the donkeys and the cows who were also rummaging along for food. As I mentioned earlier, the cows just munch out of the trash...I caught this one red handed!! I'm not sure if they are low on grass or just prefer the leftovers:)

I proceeded to go for an early morning swim after my run and then lay on the beach for 6 hours - just what I needed. The waves lulled me in and out of sleep, I read a bit and soaked some sun. I thought I had enough sunscreen on, but I always think wrong. After I got my fill of relaxation time, I took the 45 min walk up to the top of the hill to old Qepero. All the houses are made of stone and partially falling apart. But it was quite quaint and beautiful. I practiced my attempt at speaking Albanian as I wandered the few streets that were there, but I soon realized that most of the houses were built on top of each other. I headed around to the other side of the peak and took a few pictures and rested a bit (I feel like I'm the only one who sweats around here and so I had to dry off before I went back down.) Being on the top made me wonder what made the people build on the top of the hill...perhaps there was a spring or a river, but it seems to me that most villages were started near water and the water seems to be rather far away. That and the food source (fish) is also a few kilometers down hill... I am sure they had a good reason...I wish I could ask them. I met an older woman on my way down the hill - all dressed in black and bent over walking up the hill. She asked me where I was going and where I was from...though short, exchanges like these have made my trip very special.

i sneaked a shot of the little old lady

old building around the back side

I decided to have dinner at the hotel - fish, "potatoes" (french fries) and an amazing salad of cucumbers, tomatoes and fabulous cheese...all doused in the most fabulous olive oil ever. Stuffed to the brim and tired from the sun, I headed for bed with the waves lulling me to sleep.

the bunkers falling apart on the beach - all that work to keep the people safe

more to come...

Roasted corn, car washes and rain

It's raining...like really raining. And I was silly enough to think that the rain would not touch me on this adventure - no rain gear and no rain cover for le bag. So as I decide what I will do next (move on to the beach or wait it out here), I'll share a little update:

Sept 1 and 2 - Tirana, Albania: I wrote about this intriguing city a bit already last time, but the next morning I went for a long run along the river and through a park which was incredible. I've had this on and off tradition (i.e. did I remember to pack my running shoes or not??) while traveling to go on an early morning run in a town I'm visiting. Why you might ask? The morning gives a new perspective to the city before the hustle and bustle of the day begins and I can cover more ground if I am running. Plus it is an excuse for me to exercise and I don't have as many people staring at me. In especially "touristy" towns, this morning run is great because it gets me out before the tourist groups hit the town. However, over the past few years, I have been traveling to places that lack the tourist groups (fine by me), but the morning is still my favorite time. You see the women sweeping the streets and the early risers on their way to work (walking, biking, scootering, mopeding, busing, driving). You see the little old ladies shuffling their way to their street corner to set up shop (usually selling fruits and veggies). If you are lucky and in a Muslim area, you can hear the morning call to prayer. Plus the light in the morning is unmatchable.
In Tirana, the soviet style buildings have been spruced up with a paint job - and not just a brown, but pinks, greens, oranges, blues, reds, purples, turquoise - all done in a variety of designs (now would be a great time to show a picture...hmmm...still no camera cord). The women dress way up and so do the men - hair gel is very big in this country and so are weekly haircuts. Berber (Barber) shops are on every corner to assist with this and car washing stations help keep the REALLY nice cars clean and sparkly. When I say nice car, I really mean it - BMW, Mercedes, Lexus, etc - if it is black with chrome and leather, someone here is driving it. And the common entrepreneurial venture is to open your very own road side stand. They can be commercial or private (i.e. 2 kids with a bucket and a hose). This is a first among my travels and I'm curious to see if it is only here in Albania. The other thing that is new are the roasted corn stands - people will throw together a grill and set up shop anywhere to roast corn. It smells fabulous, but the taste and texture leave something to be desired. It certainly isn't the sweet corn of America, but a heartier corn (that probably requires a few hours of boiling to soften up).

Sept 2 - Kruja, Albania...eventually: A trip wouldn't be a trip without getting horridly lost on the way somewhere to do something. But thankfully, the people I have met in Albania have been incredibly kind and welcoming - plus I've met a few that spoke some English (even though most people know Italian very well...Tina I could use your help out here!!). I had heard of a small town with a castle just north of the capital and decided to trek on out there and "buzz" on back to leave Tirana (all in one day). I got off the city bus to look for the Kruja bus and couldn't find it. So I wandered near a mini-bus and was asked my final destination (I'm really only assuming what he asked me). When I said Kruja, he told me to hop on (again...assuming) - so I did. And here the adventure begins. They weren't going to Kruja (a city perched on a hill), but to a city even further north than Kruja. So after working up the courage to ask someone, I realized my mistake and was told by a fellow passenger that it'd be better if I went with them to the end of this trip and then caught a ride to Kruja on the way back. Needless to say the 45 min trip there turned into a 2.5 hour trip, including meeting a family of 7 kids that helped me find a guy who used to work in England and was going to Kruja. I went...walked around for an hour at the castle and the streets of souvenirs and caught the bus back to Tirana.
This adventure to Kruja makes me realize that it really isn't what you are seeing that makes a trip (unless you are going to see the David in Firenze), but it what happens along the way and who you meet. I have met some amazing people along this trip and had I done the traditional route where you catch the buses you mean to catch and quickly get to where you need to go (boring), I wouldn't have met them. Through these experiences, I learn more about the culture, the way people interact, the history of the people, the less formal traditions they do everyday, and the society as a whole. If I didn't wander around occasionally in the towns I was visiting, I wouldn't see these aspects of the people. I welcome these minor speed bumps along the way and hope the more will come my way (maybe not all at once though).

Sept 3 - and finally...Berat, Albania: After an unsuccessful attempt the night before and another night in Tirana, I found the bus to Berat and made the journey to this city that was newly stamped as a UNESCO town. Though part of traveling is being in a city and experiencing that place, another part (an essential part) is traveling place to place the way the locals do. This bus ride was reminiscent of the rides I used to have in Ukraine - long, rural roads (= potholes), too fast on narrow streets, and stopping at the unmarked bus stops along the road. The drivers here honk...ALL THE TIME. Sometimes it is because they are angry, but most of the time it is just to inform other people on the road (pedestrians or cars...or horses and children), that they are coming and it would be in the other person's best interest to MOVE. I didn't understand this on my first day, but the more I drive around, the more I am thankful that someone else is driving me and I don't have to navigate this place alone.
The driver knew where to drop me off and I found the hostel easily (thanks to really good directions). This town was marked as a UNESCO heritage site because of the historical part of the town. The main road follows a river and along either side of the river extend two large hills. On one side, the traditional Christian area is surrounded by a large stone wall and has many ruins of churches inside. The roads are all marble cobblestone and there are a few fun towers to climb. Since lunch hour is from 1pm - 4pm, I missed out on some of the museums, but the walk around the area gave me plenty of time to snap 100s of pictures - mostly of doorways and alleys. Trash is everywhere and it is sometimes hard to swallow - a picturesque place with candy wrappers, broken beer bottles and plastic bags flying about - but it comes with the territory (well this territory at least). After spending a couple hours on the hill, I made my way down the hill (carefully...marble is slippery!), and walked around town at the bottom of the hill. One of many mosques sits right next to the Orthodox church, serving as an example of Albania's complex history. The streets were fairly quite on my walk through the town - this could have been the hour (still before lunch ended at 4pm), the day (it was friday and people leave work early), or the rain (well, more like sprinkles, but still). I wandered and walked for sometime before I got tired of walking and getting stared at by the groups of men that sit everywhere. It is something I'm still not used to - groups of men sit everywhere and do...nothing (or at least that is what it looks like from an outsider perspective). At all of the bars and cafes, men will sit and drink coffee or beer and sit and watch, talk and commiserate. I've only seen groups of women a few times, and usually they are mothers and daughters or women with small children. I haven't worked up the courage to go to a cafe by myself and sit (I haven't seen it done by other women), but this phenomena is one of those ever so subtle reminders that I am in fact, female.

The rain hasn't stopped, but the beach is calling my name. We'll see if I make it that far....

Miredita!!

Mirëdita from Shipëria (Hello from Albania!)
Whew! I know that I promised pictures, but until I can figure out how to attach my camera to a computer (without the blessed cord that you are supposed to have but that I couldn't find at the 11th hour...), you'll have to deal with words for now! My detailed packing list and furious preplanning only got me so far and then all of a sudden it was 1:45 am on August 31st and I couldn't justify sleeping for 75 minutes before my 3:00 wake up call. So I pulled an all-nighter before my long series of flights. Thanks to my dear friend Rachel, I arrived at the airport without a hitch and was even funneled to a "special" line because I was given an archaic paper ticket (no one uses those, right??).

The flight to NYC was just dandy - long but I was so sleepy that I slept for most of it and caught up on some good ol' letter writing. The funniest part was that most of the plane was full of Ukrainians going to NY to catch the non-stop flight to Kyiv. My layover in NYC went by fast (i had to leave security and come back through) and then before I knew it I was off to Roma...ah Roma. I had two friendly row-mates (thank goodness because I was sandwiched in the middle): to my left was a college student headed for her study abroad program and the aisle seat was taken by a guy from Israel on his way home after working in the states. With a full dinner, a glass or two of wine and the darkened aircraft, I luckily slept for a bit of this 7 hour flight too. Though AlItalia may be the cheap airline of Italy...it was so nice not to have to rely on only crackers and some sparkling water as we crossed the Atlantic (as it would have been if I had been on a domestic carrier).

Before I knew it, we had touched down in Rome and I was having some tea with my Israeli friend while we both waited for our next connections. A quick stop to the bathroom to spruce before the final leg of the trip and brush my teeth (um...yes...very necessary) and I was walking out to the plane headed for Tirana, Albania. It all felt a little surreal and I could feel myself put on my travel face...aloof to those around me (unless I sense they are not threatening) and yet hypersensitive to what I see and hear. All things happen for a reason and I sat next to a girl who was 16 and on her way back to Macedonia (say the c like a k) with her family. Get this...she lived in the states from 5 years old until 2 years ago, speaks beautiful english and has now moved back to Macedonia to finish school. It was so interesting to hear her perspective on issues in this part of the world and learn a bit about the relationship between Albanians and Macedonians. She said that most Albanians living in Macedonia are treated like second class citizens - they are taught separately from the Macedonians, served separately in restaurants and are required to learn Macedonian. I realize now that I had no idea there was such tension over here. Albania is apparently the poorer of the two countries and is looked down on by Macedonia (again..according to this girl.)

Before I knew it, another flight had come and gone and I was stepping off the plane, crossing my fingers that someone would speak english, that my bag would arrive, and that there would be a place to exchange dollars for Albanian leti (otherwise I'd have bigger problems on my hands!) After the usual hassles and attempts to get you in a taxi, I found the bus to Tirana and off I went. As per usual Kelsey-style, I watched everyone closely and followed their lead. I watched how much money they gave the driver and how much they got back, when they got off the bus, and how to act in public. So when everyone hopped off the bus in the middle of an intersection, so did I and BOOM there I was in the middle of Tirana. A bustling city that reminded me a lot of parts of Ukraine on first glance - similar shops, similar style of clothing, but lacked the stoic and depressing apartment complexes. Instead, the apartment buildings are painted all sorts of bright colors. Most of the buildings are quite old and were just lucky enough to get a little TLC and get painted.

I found my hostel and after getting some much needed local advice, headed off for a cable car ride up a short mountain. This took me a bit out of the city and I realized that there is a lot of poverty here, but also just poor infrastructure (waste pick up, road maintenance etc). This will make more sense with some pictures (later). The cable ride up was beautiful - to the top with a hotel and restaurant on top - seemed to be the stomping ground for some of the richer Albanians. I strolled around the mountain top a bit and then went back down (but not before chatting with the operator at the top - i attempted to say thank you - falemenderit - and he surprised me with a british accent. Turns out he studied in England...so there you go.)

The ride back to the city helped me gather my thoughts and figure out exactly where I was (more or less) and then I decided to take a long evening stroll around the city before returning to the hostel. I saw parks, mosques, statues, monuments, pictures of Mother Teresa (apparently this is her homeland!), and even tried one of the roasted corn on the cobs on the side of the street. This last experiment was less than exciting and rather unpleasant, but it gave me something to munch on (and I do mean munch...that was some tough corn kernels. The weather is balmy...warm but not roasting and a nice breeze to cool the sweat.

I'm armed with a map and a plan (sort of). Tomorrow I'm visiting Kruja and potentially Durres (to the west on the water - Adriatic Sea). All is well and life is good - and cheap (the exchange rate is 100ish to 1 dollar and I had dinner tonight for 200...not too shabby).

More to come...
Ciao (not Albanian, but there are a lot of Italians around here, so I think it'll pass)

A geographic orientation, if you will

In response to those who have wondered where in the heck is Moldova, I give you a brief geography lesson. Below is a map of Eastern Europe, and if you look carefully, you'll find Moldova - just east of Romania, just south of Ukraine, and just west of the Black Sea (though not actually on the Black Sea). On September 11th, I'll be arriving in Chisinau (pronounced Kishinev - see Wikipedia's blurb on the capital).

Some of you might pause and ask, "But Kelsey, you're leaving at 6 something AM on August 31st...where will you be between August 31st and September 11th?? I invite you now to find Albania and Macedonia, two little countries just north of Greece, to the west of Bulgaria.
I'm going to leave Seattle on August 31st and then finally arrive in Tirana, Albania around midday on September 1st. From that point until September 10th-ish, I'll be meandering my way along the beaches of Albania and then to Lake Ohrid in Macedonia. The plans from Macedonia to Moldova are still a bit up in the air - so far I have a 30+ hour train ride as an option and I'm looking for something else a bit more desirable:)

The preparation so far has been a little harried - I finished up some powerpoint presentations for one of the PTs who is traveling with us and have mapped out a potential itinerary. Per usual Kelsey-style travel, there is enough on the itinerary for at least a month of travel and that is why you must wait a bit longer to be privy to such information (i.e. i have no idea myself, so how can I possibly tell you!)

More to come...

Generosity

Here I sit...a week from my departure date and I have been reflecting on all the extremely generous donations that have helped me to meet my fundraising goal and the surpass it! I am so grateful for the support of those around me - friends, family, classmates, and kind souls. I want to take the chance to thank you all on this here blog...but this is not nearly enough because if it wasn't for your support, I wouldn't be going to Moldova. Below are some shots of the garage sale and a list of the kind people who supported me along the way...

In no particular order, these people are the folks that donated goods to the garage sale, baked furiously in hot weather for the OT/PT bake sale, and donated money to the medical teams international website - all of them need a HUGE HUG and a THANK YOU!!

Jodi Heidmous
Trisha Neuman
Susie Byerstorfer
Lindsey Bengston
Lisa Sofio
Annie Racek
Molly Murdock and Steve Baird
MaryAnn and Bob Weber
Molly Harrigan
Lindsey Ekern
Hannah Robinson and family
Josh Aaseng and Danielle Norris
Sam and Laurel Priddy
Kathy and Himapala Marambe
Jane Waddell
Kate Mulligan
Andi Mason
Angela Chiarenza
Uncle Lawrie and Aunt Ginger
Aunt Cathy and Dwight Mahan
Mary Garcia
Beth Rollinger
Janet Powell
Tracy Jirikowic
Carol
Byrony
Rachel Kaplan
Hanssonia (aka housemates of 1102)
Byrony
Nora DeShaw
Paulie and Tonia
Kelley Totten
Mark Chambers
Eve Miller
Karen Smolich
Debbie Kingston
Grandma the Great Riechers
Christina Josey
Neighbor Bee
Susan Putham
Hillary Richardson
Molly Codd
Kara Bulthaup
Annie McMahon
Kathryn Stevens
Alicia Orr
Jenny Rastegar
Erica Bigler
Tien Le
Laura

The HUGE sale is here...

While I'm sweating in the humid and hot weather of Baltimore Maryland, my wonderful family (grandma too) is spending time pricing and organizing what should turn out to be one of the biggest sales that has ever hit Holly Street...maybe even West Linn. I encourage all interested to head on down to good ol' West Linn and check it out! Follow the craigslist ad: (http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/gms/1870797494.html (garage & moving sales)) if you'd like more info.
During my time in Ukraine, I experienced some hot and humid weather, along with some pretty rockin' thunderstorms. I'm getting a taste of that here again in Baltimore and am hoping that Moldova will have a bit of that as well. Once I get things under control, I'll post more about my trip plans. For now, I'm enjoying my time on my rotation at Johns Hopkins! too-da-loo

humble

I still have over a month before I leave for Moldova and I am realizing everyday what a humbling experience this will be. I have been worried about my funding for this trip. I want to go, so I am planning to pay any extra that I can't raise, but the generosity of old friends...and new friends has been incredible. I wholeheartedly believe in random acts of kindness and I thank all those who have chosen my trip as a way to express their act of kindness. Whether it was a little or a lot, so many people (many of whom I don't get a chance to keep in touch with) have donated to my fund. From the bottom of my heart - thank you.

so much...stuff

I am completely amazed, impressed and astounded by all the response that I've gotten from people about the garage sale. Classmates, professors, and old friends have all stepped up, cleaned out their closets and passed their precious "stuff" on to me. Now I just hope that it all sells! So please spread the word that there will be an incredible garage sale on the last weekend in July in West Linn.

School has been surprisingly difficult to manage this summer quarter, so I haven't had as much time to process the upcoming trip and experience in Moldova. Before I arrive in Moldova, I plan on flying to Albania and then travel through Albania and then on to Macedonia. Both of these countries are still off the radar (i think) of the main travel scene, so I look forward to experiencing them on a real level. I am taking a class this quarter about privilege, oppression and social justice in health care (a mouthful) and have been reading some fascinating literature about how people perceive the world. I am interested to see how my experience in this class will influence my perceptions of the people in Moldova that I will work with as well as how they experience health care.

I have more assignments to complete (not to mention an ultimate frisbee game tonight) so I bid you adieu until the next posting!

Back to the Block...the eastern block

I suppose I need to work on my blog-writing skills. After an almost four year hiatus from loading up any pictures, updates or funny stories, I'm back at it...for the time being. I am off to Moldova with a team of physical and occupational therapists, a nurse and a few students to train medical professionals in Moldova about rehabilitation techniques as well as provide some direct patient care. I will leave for 10 days of travel prior to meeting up with the team on August 31st and join the other team members in Chisinau (capital of Moldova) on September 11. For the next 15 days (Sept 11 - Sept 26), we will work in hospitals and other medical facilities conducting trainings and working with organizations in the town. If you feel so inclined to help, please follow this link
(http://www.medicalteams.org/netcommunity/KelseyWatters)
- a little or a lot - anything helps.

As of right now, I'm reading through information about different assessment tools and tests that we may administer or train health providers about. Since I'm a student, I'll probably be mostly doing assistant work, but I look forward to those rare opportunities for hands on experience!

Keep checking for more good stuff...
Kels

Pictures for you...pictures from me:)

Above is my host family at Artem's graduation, to the left is my host dad in the potato field in the village

there's my host mom with a cutie hedgehog we found on a walk one night and then my sweet bike:) its a granny one speeder, don't be jealous!
i know its cheezy...but its me...see i'm really in ukraine. i've even got a smile on my face! I will try to update this a little bit more if this will work better than emailing pictures!

5 months in and this is the first blog entry in Ukraine

Just a quick note...the rain is pouring and frankly i'd much rather stay in this computer lab all day than go outside in the rain. life in Ukraine is great thus far. School starts in a month which is just maddening. then i have to be a real teacher and such. I'm going to try to add pictures here soon, but we'll see. the internet here doesn't like my pictures for some reason!

Almost to Ukraine

Well Dayna and I (my roommate from WY) are hanging out in the wonderous Doubletree Hotel on this Mardi Gras evening...catching up with family and friends. We've had a day and a half of intensive training with our fellow 67 volunteers headed to Ukraine. Most are 22-27, but there are several "mature" volunteers who I completely repsect and admire because they are giving up homes, families, jobs, etc. I moved HOME for 9 months before I left for Ukraine w/ no responsibilities or ties to anyone, so its pretty incredible that these special people are giving up their time for this amazing experience. We've been told over and over and over again that Ukraine is by far one of the best run Peace Corps groups around the world. They are all very educated in Ukraine and we have great support from the country and the communities. The Youth Development program (that's mine) is only a few years old, but is already VERY successful. None of us know where we are going, what we are doing, or who we are staying with. They like to keep us in the dark (not really...its probably part of the Peace Corps training:)
Also...today the Peace Corps President (appointed by the White house) came to give us a GREAT speech and go team type of send off. He has a great grasp of the issues and challenges that PCVs have to deal with (oh...just to give you the heads up, apparently Peace Corps uses a lot of acroynms!). He travels everywhere and is in touch with the volunteers who are here and in country.

So tomorrow is the big day. Our flight doesn't leave until 6 pm, but we are headed to the airport at 2 pm. I guess with 68 people on one flight headed out of the country on the gov't dollar, they want to make sure that all is well! I am nervous, but mostly excited about all the new people i have met and friendships that I have begun. Its just great. I won't be able to access my email or other communications for a bit, so that will be a bit difficult or more of an adjustment than I'm used to. Prayers folks...need yo prayers! I need to keep centered and focused and don't get overwhelmed. I hope all is going well!!!

love ya
kels

the 11th hour...

Its funny how I've finally sat down to write on this page and its actually 11:00 pm, so that means I have 12 hours, 11 min until my flight to chicago leaves this BEAUTIFUL state of Oregon. But here I am...with my bags that are each 52 lbs (not the regulated 50 lbs) and a "carry-on" that well, pushes the limits of carry-on bags (yes that means i will be one of THOSE passengers that hits all the other passengers on the shoulders as they walk down the aisle to their seat). My family hosted a "PEACE-out party" as Sean calls it and some wonderful people stopped by to say hello...goodbye...and hear about all my random Ukrainian facts (i don't have many). Its hard to say goodbye for 2 years because I just don't know what that feels like to be away from the people I LOVE and care about for so long! It will be an adjustment and an adventure all in one! I have badgered the dell support people making sure i completely understand my computer because well....i doubt i'll be able to call them when i need to in Ukraine:) anyhoo...hopefully i'll figure out how to work these blog things and will be able to post pictures soon. Thank you again for all your prayers...thoughts..and love!

Kels

Its the 10 day mark...am I ready??

Welp...here I am. 10 days. Can you believe it? I can't. There's so much to do over the next week and some change, but it will all get done and I won't have to worry too much...this much I know is true. I am done shopping (well one more trip to the REI garage sale:) and as for boots...I am tired of looking for them, so I'll just wait. I am a bit intimidated by the potential "elf" boots that I have heard are all the rage for Ukrainian women. The more I read from current PCVs and other people who have lived in Ukraine, the more I realize that I worry too much. Life will go on if I get a little cold from time to time, or don't fit in (because frankly...I never did!) I am prepping the first of many mass emails to go out to my friends, family, loved ones, etc and its interesting to write.. hi...i won't see you for 2 years...i'll miss you!

Anyhoo. Last few days of prep and trying to stop ignoring the rather large pachyderm that is sitting in my room and staring at me, hoping that I finally realize what is coming my way! Here's to the last days in ptown!

Getting this thing started

well...it has begun. in a month and change, I'll be off on an adventure to Ukraine (not the Ukraine). Who knows if I'm ready and I'm not sure what to expect (besides a few things I've been told), but I'm ready for a challenge, for an adventure. The Peace Corps asks "Life is calling...how far will you go?" It seems that life has indeed called me out and I've accepted the challenge. I'm going far away to a place that is unknown to me as of now...but will soon be home. And with that...I have started my first blog:)

(but seriously though...the only thing i'm really worried about is what i'm going to wear so i reduce the risk of turning into a kelsey-sicle. i do believe that has been the bain of my existance the past few months. my only argument in favor of all the stress over the proper attire is that as long as my feet are warm...i'll be fine)